Sour dough bread has its origins in the times before reliable commercial yeast was available for leavening. A baker had several options available to leaven bread. The local brewer was a source of yeast that, while rather slow and [...]]]> ©1995, 1999, 2003 Jeff Renner    jsrenner@umich.edu

Sour dough bread has its origins in the times before reliable commercial yeast was available for leavening. A baker had several options available to leaven bread. The local brewer was a source of yeast that, while rather slow and often bitter, was usually reliable. People away from a brewery could make a starter by capturing wild yeast from the environment, a chancy proposition at best. Because of the ubiquitous presence of Lactobacillus spp., this starter would inevitably become sour. In a true starter, wild yeast and bacteria establish a relatively stable equilibrium. When a particularly good starter was found, it would be prized, and the baker would save a portion of the previous dough or sponge in a covered container to use for the next batch. This starter is a very vigorous one that a friend brought me several years ago from a famous Parisian bakery. It is subtly sour, and as a matter of fact, the French object to calling their naturally fermented bread “sour dough.” They prefer the term “pain au levain.” While it isn’t very sour, it is far more flavorful bread than bread fermented with commercial yeast. You can make more sour bread by letting each stage ferment longer than the minimum.

ACTIVATING THE STARTER (or reactivating a dormant starter): Add the starter sample to one cup of chlorine-free water (this is essential) in a non-reactive bowl and beat it to a froth with an electric mixer, then beat in a cup (5 oz.) of flour. I desired, you could beat it to a froth several times over 30 minutes before adding the flour.  The frothiness ensures good aeration for maximum growth of the yeast. This should become active and bubbly and frothy within a few hours. Then proceed to the next stage.  If the starter is tired, it may take longer or more “builds” to become active.

KEEPING AND USING A STARTER: I usually save only the equivalent of one cup each of water and flour (13 oz. total weight, volume variable) in the refrigerator in a loosely sealed plastic jar. I refrigerate it at the peak of its activity. The day before I want to bake, I remove two tablespoons and proceed as above, whipping it frothy and adding a cup of flour.  When it is fully active, I add another cup of water, beat to a froth, and add another cup of flour.  That evening, I add one or two more cups of water, whip it, then add one or two cups of flour.  The next morning it is bubbly. If I want especially sour bread, I start it earlier.  This is the time to double or triple the starter for a bigger recipe.  This first step with equal measures of water and flour is called the sponge stage.

If the starter has been kept long enough for it to become dormant (several weeks or months), follow the previous directions for activating the starter, using two or three tablespoons of starter and discarding the rest.

I like to use rye flour for the starter I keep for maximum vigor, and often use rye for at least part of the first cup when building a starter, even for a white bread.  Rye flour makes a vigorous ferment and is a dough improver in small amounts.  If I am making wheat or rye breads, I use the whole wheat or rye flour first, in the sponge, since fermentation produces enzymes that break down gluten in time. Since rye doesn’t have much gluten anyway, this results in a better rising loaf than if you let the enzymes work on wheat gluten in the sponge.  Besides, I think the flavors are nicer with these flours in the sponge, especially light rye.

USES FOR SOUR DOUGH Rye breads are especially nice made with a sour dough starter. The stickiness of rye flour is largely eliminated by the acidity of the dough, and the flavor of rye bread is best with the sourness. French country loaves, both white and partly or all whole wheat, are also nice.  This is essentially what San Francisco sour dough is, although it is made with a different culture.

The gluten in a sour starter is pretty well broken down by the enzymes present, and these enzymes will also weaken the gluten in dough if you use too long a fermentation time. One rise before shaping may be enough. Be sure to use flours that have high levels of strong gluten such as bread, clear, or high gluten flours. I like to make sour dough breads as hearth loaves, that is, baked without pans. You can either let them rise on a baking sheet, or on parchment, or in a basket lined with a floured cloth. For the latter two, bake them on a pizza stone, inverting the basket-risen loaf on a peel first. Slash the tops, or dock (stab) heavy rye loaves. I start them at 425F for ten minutes and then drop the oven to 375F until finished. Use steam for the first 10 minutes (heat an old cast iron skillet and put it in the bottom of the oven and put hot water in it), and if the loaves aren’t floured, spray them.

Basic Recipe

2-1/2 lbs any flour (variable) (including that in starter)

3 c water (including that in starter)

1 to 1-1/2 T salt (more for rye & French, less for Italian)

For maximum lightness and minimum sourness, proceed to next stage when starter is at maximum foaminess. For more sourness (at the expense of lower volume, which may be appropriate anyway), let the starter or sponge sit longer before adding to it.

Sample variations

French: Mild sour, all white bread flour, 1-1/2 T s.

Country French: Use portion whole wheat (try whole wheat pastry flour)

Italian: Very mild sour, 1 – 2 T light malt extract optional, 1 – 2 T olive oil, 1 T s.  Good for pizza.

American sour dough: Like French but with stronger sour

Jewish rye: Mild sour, 1 to 1-1/4 lb white rye flour, balance bread flour, 1 – 2 T light malt extract optional, 1-1/4 T s.

Medium Rye: As above with medium sour, 3/4 – 1 lb. medium rye flour, 1 – 3 T any color malt extract, 1 – 2 T caraway seeds optional

Dark rye: Medium to full sour, 3/4 lb. whole rye (or dark rye) flour, 1/4 lb. coarse rye meal or whole rye kernels (be sure to use in the sponge or presoak with some of the water), 1 – 4 T dark malt extract, 1-1/2 T s.

I assume that you know basic bread making techniques.  I recommend the newsgroup rec.foods.sourdough FAQ at

http://www.faqs.org/faqs/by-newsgroup/rec/rec.food.sourdough.html.  It is an incredible compendium of information.

Have fun!

Over the Valentine’s weekend, the Ann Arbor Brewers Guild resurrected an old tradition — brewing a Bizzaro ale. The first Bizarro was brewed in 2001, and was inspired by Larry Bell’s Eccentric Day ale. Members bring adjuncts and specialty grains, and these are all tossed into the kettles creating—well, A VERY [...]]]>

Mark Zadvinskis's Amazing Zymurman Logo!

Over the Valentine’s weekend, the Ann Arbor Brewers Guild resurrected an old tradition — brewing a Bizzaro ale. The first Bizarro was brewed in 2001, and was inspired by Larry Bell’s Eccentric Day ale. Members bring adjuncts and specialty grains, and these are all tossed into the kettles creating—well, A VERY unusual ale indeed. This last batch was brewed at the Corner Brewery in Ypsilanti, Michigan and will be served commercially thanks to Matt and Rene Greff’s Rat Pad program (http://www.arborbrewing.com/index.php?site=cornerbrewery&page=menu3&submenu=2). Homebrewers use a 3 half barrel system, brew a batch and it gets served a few weeks later as one of the Corner’s specialty brews. Brewers are also reimbursed for their ingredients, and get their moment of fame!

Perhaps when Mike is running away, we should pay attention!

Some 40+ members showed up Sunday and our own Mike O’Brien dangerously balanced the mash tun on top of the other two kettles. First 20 pounds of wheat and rye were mashed together, then drained. The initial temp was supposed to be 100o, but instead it was 110o, and a three hour mash ensued. This was followed by another 45+ pounds that mashed a little easier.

More grains can fit!

Once approx. 20+ gallons had been sparged into two kettles, an insane number of unique and creative adjuncts were added. Additionally, our own Steve Hawley, contributed Michigan homegrown hops from his new hop field (below, as well as contribution of Liberty and more Nugget from Jim and Rog.

Steve's hop field

Yours truly took it upon myself to make sure I talked to each contributor of the following ingredients, and tried to guesstimate an amount appropriate to the brew — not that there was much appropriate about the brew! My lasting memory will be of the little yellow marshmallow peeps floating momentarily on top of the boil, then slowly becoming part of the brew! And here is the final “tally” of what all went into Bizzaro:

Some of the adjuncts

Bizzaro Ale #2
Mash
45 lbs. Marris Otter
10 lbs. rye
4 lbs. wheat
2 lbs. corn grits
2 lbs. aromatic toasted malt
2 lbs. fresh spruce under the mash screen
1 stick cinnamon

Hops:
Hops were provided by Steve Hawley and Jim Satterfield. All but the 1 oz. of Liberty pellets were locally grown in Michigan and no alpha acid information is available.
4 ounces of Centennial @ 60m
2 ounces of Magnum @60m
1.5 ounces of Cascades each, loosely added @ 15m, 10m, 5m and 1m.
1 ounce Liberty hops tossed in @various times starting at about 10m.
Total hops 13 ounces + dry hops

Adjuncts:
6 pieces of Jamaican country Mauby bark (used to make a concentrated syrup for homemade pop) @60m
8 ounces of Peruvian bitter chocolate (semi-melted in a pot and added) @10m
1 tbls. Of Orange peel @10m
10 Marshmallow Chick Peeps @10m
2 tbls. Cracked Juniper berries @5m
2 tbls. Jamaican jerk rub (Allspice, thyme and hot pepper) @5m
3 Star Anise crushed @5m
12 ounces of molasses @5m
2 tbls. Black pepper (cracked) @5m
4-5 sprigs fresh rosemary @2m
3 ounces fresh Ginger chucks @2m
500 ml. Homemade Michigan maple syrup @2m
1.5 lbs. Dark Belgian Candi syrup @2m
1 once Calendula flower tops (from Bridgette’s garden) @2m

Additional items to go into primary and/or secondary
6 pounds of cranberries, 5 pounds of tart cherries, 4 vanilla beans, more cinnamon, Nugget hops (4 ounces-dry hop), and blueberry extract. Dry Australian Ale Yeast was used to ferment this puppy.

There are tons of pics available of the day’s activities from these websites:
http://picasaweb.google.com/dan.jeska/BizzaroBrewII
http://picasaweb.google.com/picobrew/BizzaroBrew
http://picasaweb.google.com/ajneitzke/Bizzaro?authkey=QEHWQ_FJjJc

And if brewing this puppy wasn’t enough, Mike O’Brien provided a distinctly Wisconsin treat known as a “fish boil”. Let’s just say that it was another violation of OSHA and food handling laws, but take a look at the final moments of both fish boils at:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kYYuWcZDStY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S1eCuINhOmA

Err, Mike ... the gas line ... Mike?!?

As one member said, it is truly incongruous that as brewers, this activity actually requires a boil over. And Rog posited that we were actually losing valuable Omega acids and fish oils, but ce la vie.

Mike O’Brien said “the beer had an OG of 1.080 had a beautiful flowery aroma and flavor with a mouth feel like gravy! We will see what the final product tastes like soon enough at the Rat Pad, and 10 gallons will be aged and saved for club functions for years to come. Several bottle of the 2001 vintage Bizzaro made it to the meeting, and if last years foray into food into the beer project presented at the 2008 AHA National Conference is any guide, we may have out-Dogfish’ed Sam Calagione!”

Over the weekend my son and I put together a motorized malt mill. I’d been planning it since Jim Suchy gave me a washing machine motor just before he left. The parts we purchased cost less than $25 and it took about four hours to make, with Ben’s help.

The motor is 1,729 rpms and we adjusted it with [...]]]> Steve Darnell writes:

Over the weekend my son and I put together a motorized
malt mill. I’d been planning it since Jim Suchy gave me
a washing machine motor just before he left. The parts we
purchased cost less than $25 and it took about four hours
to make, with Ben’s help.

The motor is 1,729 rpms and we adjusted it with two sheaves
at 1.5″ and 8″ down to 324 rpm and attached it to my Schmidling
mill. It grinds a pound of grain in 6 seconds.

Im looking forward to brewing this week.

<

Dan Jeska replied with a couple of photos: Steve, that looks very similar to the mill I have. I used an 1800 rpm
utility motor reduced down via the sheaves you mentioned to around 300
rpm. I have never heard of those wheels or pulleys referred to as
“sheaves”. You will be now be able to use your arm strength for
lifting fermenters instead of crushing grain!

The attached photos show my old creaky grain mill, as well as the
“Mother of All Grain Mills” built by my friend Steve Higdon.

The two attached photos are of imperial stout a friend and I brewed, 15 hours and 22 hours after pitching.

There was about ~11 gallons/41 liters of 1.089 wort in a 15.5 gallon/58 liter cut off SS Hoff-Stevens barrel (opening is 13″/33 cm diameter). I pitched 10 fl. oz. (300 ml) of thick, top-cropped WhiteLabs WLP103 London [...]]]> Brewers

The two attached photos are of imperial stout a friend and I brewed, 15 hours and 22 hours after pitching.

There was about ~11 gallons/41 liters of 1.089 wort in a 15.5 gallon/58 liter cut off SS Hoff-Stevens barrel (opening is 13″/33 cm diameter). I pitched 10 fl. oz. (300 ml) of thick, top-cropped WhiteLabs WLP103 London Ale Yeast, which makes a thick yeasty head.

I aerated the chilled wort (66F/19C) when transferring it to plastic carboys for transporting it home by running it down the inside of the carboys, then again by dumping it forcefully into the fermenter, then again five hours later by bubbling filtered air through it for 30 minutes (coarse bubbler). I want this baby to finish completely!

I hadn’t counted on this vigorous a ferment, though. I don’t normally ferment uncovered, but at 14 hours it had pushed the lid off. I covered it with 18″/49cm wide plastic wrap with the sides stuck down with sterilant solution, and it pushed this up in a bubble in a matter of minutes, then after an hour, pushed it off.

I cleaned up, skimmed, and left it uncovered. The first photo is a half hour later or so. The twisting, braided, arching tendrils looked alive. At this point the foam was light with no particular yeast.

I shut off the heat vent and closed the door (in a small bathroom) to keep out air borne contaminants (also stopped using that toilet) and to try to keep it cooler. The ambient temperature had been 68F/20C and the beer temperature just slightly higher.

During the day, the foamy head kept pushing up over the top. I had to skim it every hour, then more often. It began to get somewhat denser with yeast, and towards 24 hours the thick foam I dumped in the sink shook like jelly or mousse. I tried simply beating it down (but not into the fermenting beer itself) but that would only buy me about 15 minutes.

Finally, at bedtime, about hours 30 after pitching, I skimmed it down to about an inch of head, then covered it with plastic wrap with the narrower overlap on the side of the keg over the sink (it was sitting on the sink counter). I figured that would be where it would pull off and act as a safety valve.

I got up this morning expecting to see foam pushing out from under the door, but happily, the fermentation had abated enough that it had pulled off the plastic only at the side. About a cup of thick yeast (felt like thick, wet mud) had collected on the towel beside the barrel, and the beer had drained out of the yeast into the sink.

The temperature in the room had dropped overnight 60 60F/15C, but the beer was still 68.7F/20.4C) I think this might have helped control the rate of fermentation, but more likely it was simply slowing from having fermented much/most of the fermentables.

I’ve attached a Recipator file of the recipe for those who are interested. Of some interest, I think, is that I used 21% brown malt and 2 lbs of Lyle’s Golden Syrup, which has 1.6 lbs solid invert sugar (glucose).

I’m looking forward to tasting this when it’s finished. It smells fantastic, with notes of dark malt, licorice, molasses, cocoa, toasted oak, all kinds of dark notes.

Jeff